Blast From the Past

Bullocks is an iconic name in department store luxury shopping. The more mainstream original Bullocks location opened downtown Los Angeles in 1907. The elegant, art deco masterpiece, Bullocks Wilshire, opened in 1929 and was the jewel in the crown of the Bullocks chain.

I don’t have any memory of visiting Bullocks Wilshire. Bullocks Westwood was closer to home. I recall two specific shopping trips there with my older sister: once as a child when she bought me a living room set of furniture for Barbie, and once as a teenager when she bought us matching, mustard-colored heels in the 60s. The heels have been relegated to the dustbin of history. I still have the furniture, which is in premium condition.

Bullocks Westwood is now a Target.

When I recently learned the Art Deco Society does events at the historic Bullocks Wilshire, I wanted in there. It’s the location of a scene from my upcoming book, Over the Moon and Other Adventures. I researched the building from newspaper clippings, but there’s nothing quite like seeing things in person. I knew the building was being used as a law school but had no idea how carefully it has been preserved largely due to the efforts of former L.A. mayor Tom Bradley.

The thing is, I didn’t really want to join the Art Deco Society just to get inside. I messed around on the internet until I found the Friends of Bullocks Wilshire. Although they support various events in the building, they hadn’t been active since Covid. Optimistically, I signed up for their email list imagining they’d get over Covid eventually.

Months later, I was surprised to find their email in my box. They finally decided to sponsor some events, the first of which was an open house. Concurrently, they were hosting a tea and tour event with more lectures planned for fall. I was all over the tea and tour and we ordered tickets. Here’s a glimpse of Bullocks Wilshire.

They clearly weren’t quite over Covid. I’ve never seen a sign like this.

The main entrance is actually not on Wilshire Boulevard, but behind the store. The elevator court and perfume hall greeted shoppers as they entered through the doors on the left of this picture. The room is almost in its original condition. Bronze, copper and nickel patterns accent the doors. Only the flooring has been replaced. Rubber tiles don’t last forever.

Carl and I are ready for our tea and tour.

The wall cabinets, display cases and marble walls are all original. College Memorabilia and vintage merchandise are on display instead of perfume.

The extensive law library fills many rooms. Unique clocks are fascinating. This one omits the hours of six to nine. Why? The store was never open then so that time of day simply isn’t important.

Even the restrooms are classic art deco.

Here is a discreet entry off Wilshire Boulevard that allowed horse lovers to enter the saddle shop while avoiding the pomp and circumstance of the grand entrance. Bullocks Barney, a life-size plaster horse, stood in the corner. Customers could check the fit of their breeches by climbing aboard. Hollywood actors such as John Wayne bought their riding gear here.

A winding staircase led to the doggery where dog owners and their pets could peruse the latest in collars, sweaters and accessories, displayed on dog mannequins.

The drawers and cupboards from the stationery department remain. 

Designer Irene moved from her tiny store to design for Bullocks Ladies Custom Salon where she met Hollywood stars. Exposure led to a costume design career in the movie industry. Her designs could be elegant such as the ballgown for Ginger Rogers in Shall We Dance, but she was known as the originator of the dressmaker suit, as seen in her close personal friend, Doris Day’s movies. Vivien Leigh wore one of her creations to the Academy Awards when she won for best actress in Gone With the Wind.

Attention to every detail is obvious as evidenced by this metal door frame.

On the fifth floor, we visited Mr. Bullock’s office. He lived in an apartment accessed through doors on the sides of the fireplace.

He probably could never have imagined this view from his balcony. When Bullocks Wilshire opened, it was considered to be in the suburbs, a deviation from typical retail planning of the day when everyone went downtown to shop.

The view above the patio is pretty spectacular too.

What else is on the fifth floor? The famous desert-themed tearoom. This is the ceiling in the waiting area. 

We were first in line for tea. 

Service was a little sketchy, this was a catered event, but the food was delicious.

That’s a lot of tea sandwiches for one person. We brought some home.

Desserts were ample and scrumptious. Of course, we had tea and scones.

We had a lovely and fascinating day. Should you ever have the opportunity to experience Bullocks Wilshire, I highly recommend it.

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed.