Episode Four—Arlington Cemetery

I’ve decided all this walking is like boot camp for old people. I may be flunking. But we started with a taxi ride today.

As you can see by the license on this very patriotic bus, D.C. residents want more representation.

We’re staying in a business district—FEMA is right next door; the Department of Education across the street. There is no hustle and bustle however, only tourists. Evidently most government employees still work from home.

We stayed most of the day at Arlington Cemetery. I recommend their tram, which stops at important sites.

Here’s the eternal flame where President Kennedy and his family are laid to rest. The flame was a last-minute idea of Jacqueline Kennedy. Eager to please, a gas-fueled tiki torch was modified for use until a permanent flame was installed years later. Compared to the lush greenery at Arlington, this is a strangely bleak spot.

Next, we watched the changing of the guard and a wreath laying at the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier. There was so much pomp and circumstance, completely unlike life today.

The advice to watch from high above turned out to be a good idea.

There are over 400,000 graves at Arlington and a flag is placed at every one as a Memorial Day tribute. World War II Hero and actor Audie Murphy is still fondly remembered.

The last stop was Robert E. Lee’s home. Having missed the tour, we walked through without a guide. Before this trip, I never understood how closely related the Lees and Washingtons were. Martha Washington had four children by her first, very wealthy husband. The oldest two died before the age of five. Then came a boy and finally a girl who was only a toddler when Martha married George. He raised the children as if they were his own. George and Martha never had children together.

Martha’s daughter suffered from seizures and died at age 17, so Martha’s only surviving child was Jack Custis. Jack married young and had 7 children by the time he turned 26, only 4 of whom survived. Against George’s wishes, Jack joined the Revolutionary War effort and died from Camp Fever.

Martha, having lost all her children, pretty much insisted her daughter-in-law share the four grandchildren. They were split up, 2 going to Mount Vernon to be raised by George and Martha and 2 stayed with their mother who remarried and had 16 more children. Can you even imagine bearing a total of 23 children over a lifetime? How could she even remember their names?

Portrait of Washington with his grandson “Washy”—George Custis’ nickname.

Being the only boy, George Washington Parke Custis became the sole heir of his father’s estate. He built Arlington House three years after his grandfather’s death, intending it as a memorial to the first president. Having collected many of his grandfather’s belongings, George hosted visitors who came from far and wide to enjoy the artifacts.

George had only one surviving child, Mary, who became his sole heir. Well, guess who Mary married when he was a mere lieutenant? Robert E. Lee.

The parlor where the Lees wed.

George Washington Parke Custis’ art studio

Robert and Mary were married at Arlington house and lived there for 30 years. The home was incredibly dear to Mary, especially her gardens. When George Washington Parke Custis died, Mary resisted all her husband’s attempts to manage her finances. Now think about this. Robert E. Lee was one of the most powerful men in the country and he could not control his wife. How can anyone think women didn’t wield any power in times past?

Mary was reluctant to leave when Union soldiers advanced during the Civil War. Her desire to save Washington memorabilia, including the bed in which the President died, caused her departure. As the war progressed, the land was confiscated by the government. Technically, taxes had to be paid in person by property owners. There was no way Lee could prance into enemy territory to pay the $80 tax fee. The house was eventually used as a hospital and the Union started burying amputated limbs in Mary’s precious garden. Arlington Cemetery was begun.

Many felt the cemetery was justified retribution against Lee, who declined to fight for the Union and against his friends and family. In a strange twist of fate, the house never belonged to him, but to Martha Washington’s great-granddaughter.

The bones of over 2,000 unknown Union soldiers are interred here.

Found another interesting book in the gift shop. We were lucky to catch a taxi and made a stop at the Smithsonian American History Museum where we found surprisingly good Mexican food. The first thing I spotted was a quilt. When I asked where to find the quilts, I was disappointed to find that was the only one on display

Me, all happy to find a quilt, what I thought to be the first of many.

We did see the actual flag from Fort McHenry, the inspiration for the Star Spangled Banner.

Extremely dim light protects the fibers but makes for poor pictures. This flag is HUGE—30×42 feet.